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To See Ourselves by Alistair Moffat 

A Personal History of Scotland Since 1950. Viking, 2025, 270 p, including  3 p Foreword, 16 p Index, 2 p Further Reading and 1 p Acknowledgements.

As the title suggests this is a History of Scotland over the past 75 years as seen through the author’s eyes. He was brought up in Kelso, firstly in what he says people dismissively called a prefab, then a council house, in a time before the rise of supermarkets, when the food was local, without a hint of air miles, and goods were dispensed from larger containers into smaller carriable ones by the shop assistant (in my experience this was usually a man.) At the time most houses did not have a fridge – never mind a freezer – so food was consumed more or less on the day it was bought, necessitating many visits to the shops each week. Moffat waxes most nostalgic about the milk from the local farmer, rich and creamy or richer and creamier – no skimmed milk back then – but that food products from the Empire were unremarked on, taken as read, as was Imperial paraphernalia such as the label on Camp Coffee bottles. He also remembers, as do I, that Christmas was a working day in Scotland until very late in the 1950s.

His father was of the generation that knew its place and still suffered from deference to the landed classes (the Duke of Roxburghe’s Floors Castle lies just outside Kelso.) When Moffat’s elder sister performed well enough in school to get to University her dad at first was against it but his wife prevailed on him so off the sister went and in due course Moffat followed. Corporal punishment by the tawse was an everyday feature of Scottish schools at that point and Moffat outlines the circumstances that led to its abandonment.

The mid-1960s expansion of university places and the provision of grants made working class attendance at University eminently affordable for Moffat’s contemporaries and he laments the present system whereby, notwithstanding the provision for tuition fees, Scottish students now rack up huge debts while gaining a degree. He is also of the opinion that student life ought to be about more than educational attainment rather than narrowed down to academic performance.

The coming of television altered daily life as did the advent of The Beatles, the sexual revolution, and the Abortion Bill sponsored by Moffat’s local MP, David Steel.

Agriculture too has changed, the coming of the little grey Fergie tractor with its device for transferring power to farm implements hastening the demise of the horse and the jobs that they necessitated, grooming, smithing etc.

The decline of church-going has been precipitate (apparently now attendance at Catholic services outstrips the Church of Scotland, a fact which would have astonished those formidable eighteenth and nineteenth century adherents of the Scottish Reformation.) He touches on the religious divide which still mars life in Scotland. Apparently in staunchly Protestant Larkhall the lowest traffic light of a set was smashed on a routine basis, ASDA was even discouraged from opening there due to its green livery.

Newspaper readership was once much higher in Scotland than in the rest of the UK, the Saturday evening ‘pinks’ a feature, and Sundays were dominated by the Sunday Post, adorned by its pullout “Fun Section” – The Broons, Oor Wullie and all, and its border editions covered rugby extensively.

Moffat tells us that the Sunday Post was a true newspaper, with broad coverage of foreign news. “Couthy, borderline obsessive about Scottish sports reporting and constantly upholding what might be seen as the values of the Kirk – the Sunday Post was all of those things. But parochial it was not.” He then adds the killer line, “The paper even covered events in England.”

He remarks on the liberation of the licensing laws – which has not led to the deterioration of behaviour its critics feared and predicted but, he says, to a more measured approach to alcohol consumption – and laments the decline in amateur sport.

He notes the transformation of women’s place in society, and the highlighting of domestic abuse which had once tended to be considered a private matter but is now treated more seriously.

His final chapter is titled Permacrisis and deals with the upheavals, political and otherwise, which the world has seen over the past decade.

As a summary of the Scots experience in the past seventy years To See Ourselves is an excellent primer.

Pedant’s corner:-  Wilfred Brambell (Wilfrid Brambell,) the Glasgow Evening Times’ editorial  (Glasgow Evening Times’s,) “Robbins’ expansion” (Robbins’s,) the Hawkins’ house ( Hawkins’s,) the Flower Pot Men (the Flowerpot Men,) I Love Lucy is implied to have been aired on STV (I remember it as being on the BBC,) “Captain W E John’s Biggles” (Captain W E Johns’s,) “each Autumn Scottish schoolchildren were allowed off school for the ‘tattie holidays’” (not in all Scotland, certainly schools in Dumbarton didn’t have that break, though an October week or two is now, I think, standard across Scotland,) spikey (spiky,) “more liberal that in England or Wales” (more liberal than,) “the orchestra reached a crescendo” (crescendos are not reached; they build,) “the Lionesses won the European Champions Cup” (actually the European Women’s Championship; the Champions Cup is for clubs,)  “a Scottish businesswomen” (businesswoman,) “Liz Truss’ childish petulance” (Truss’s – as it was on the next page,) “seem not be episodes” (seem not to be episodes,) “Nana Hawkins’ house” (Hawkins’s.)

 

The Maiden Stone

Another Pictish symbol stone, this one by the side of a minor road just northwest of Inverurie, Aberdeenshire:-

Maiden Stone, Aberdeenshire

Reverse of Maiden Stone

Information board:-

Maiden Stone Information Board

Brandsbutt Symbol Stone, Inverurie

This stone is now in the middle of a housing estate in Inverurie, Aberdeenshire. It was once part of a stone circle.

Brandsbutt Symbol Stone in Situ, Inverurie

Stone’s markings:-

Markings on Brandsbutt Symbol Stone, Inverurie

Information Board :-

Information Board at Brandsbutt Symbol Stone, Inverurie

St Machar’s Cathedral, Aberdeen (i)

St Machar’s Cathedral in Aberdeen has not had a bishop since 1690, so it is now technically a high kirk. It is used as a parish church by the Church of Scotland.

Spires:-

St Machar's Cathedral Spires

From entrance gate:-

St Machar's Cathedral, Aberdeen

From sides:-

St Machar's Cathedral in Aberdeen

Aberdeen, St Machar's Cathedral

Rear of kirk:-

East Wall of St Machar's Cathedral, Aberdeen

Grave of William the Lion, Arbroath Abbey

We had meant to visit Arbroath Abbey for some time but did not actually do so till last year. (We had tried the year before but the Abbey was undergoing some restoration work so access was limited and we decided against it.)

William the Lion was the longest reigning king of Scotland before the 1603 Union of the Crowns. He was the first Scottish king to arrange an alliance with France. His epithet ‘the lion’ did not relate to military prowess but rather to his banner the red lion rampant on a yellow background, still the banner of Scottish monarchs though frequently used as a symbol of Scotland itself and often brandished at sporting events.

Domestically his reign saw legal and local government reforms but disputes with English kings and his attempts to regain the Kingdom of Northumbria were not so successful.

William is credited with founding the Abbey at Arbroath, so to find his grave there is not surprising.

Grave of William the Lion, Arbroath Abbey

 

 

Perth Museum

Perth Museum recently relocated to the building which used to be Perth City Hall. It’s slap bang in the middle of the city so a good location.

The new museum’s main attraction is the Stone of Destiny, removed from Edinburgh Castle to be nearer to its spiritual home in Scone a couple of miles north of Perth itself.

Some of the exhibits have been transferred from the old Museum and Art Gallery in George Street, notably the St Madoes stone, which, in its new location, is now lit up to help highlight the carvings:-

St Madoes stone, Perth Museum, Scotland

Side and back views:-

Side of St Madoes Stone, Perth Museum

Perth Museum, St Madoes Stone

I particularly liked, though, the illumintaed map of Perth through the ages where different parts were lit up at different times to show the evolution of the town/city:-

Illuminated Map of Perth, Perth Museum

Perth Museum, Illuminated Map of  Perth

Then of course there was this picture of the famous old Pullars of Perth premises a building which verges on Art Deco:-

Art Deco Pullars, Perth, Scotland

Bannockburn

Bannockburn is the site of the Scottish nation’s birth. Had it not been for the victory Robert the Bruce won over the forces of the English King Edward II  in 1314 Scotland would almost certainly have been absorbed into England, as Wales was under the previous King Edward – Edward I, known as Longshanks and also as the Hammer of the Scots. (Not that the intervening 700+ years have eroded Welsh identity entirely away nor the three hundred since the Union of the Parliaments diluted the sense of Scottishness.) But Scotland as we know it would not exist, its separate legal and educational system not even a fleeting thought.

While the fact of the battle is undeniable there is no archæological evidence of the actual battle site, most of the soldiers’ accoutrements being perishable, its exact location is now a matter of conjecture informed by historical sources and topography.

We visited the Visitor Centre in April. This is the major information board:-

Information Board,  Bannockburn Visitor Centre

There was also this tableau of the battle site constructed from historical references:-

Bannockburn Visitor Centre, Tableau of Battle Site

The tour guide (a genial Englishman) was very informative and there were some cartoonish films no doubt intended to appeal to children filling in some of the background to the battle.

On the small hill outside the Visitor Centre there is a huge flagpole flying the Saltire of Scotland. It is situated within a rotunda:-

Rotunda + Flag, Bannockburn, battlefield, Scotland

Flagpole, Bannockburn Visitor Centre

Inside the rotunda is a cairn which bears the inscription “For God and St Andrew Robert the Bruce King of Scots planted his flag near this spot when the Scottish patriots under his command vanquished the armies of Edward of England at the Battle of Bannockburn, 24th June 1314.” Below that is a quote from the Declaration of Arbroath, the assertion of Scottish nationhood sent to the Pope in 1320. “We fight not for glory nor for wealth nor honour but only and alone we fight for freedom which no good man surrenders but with his life.”

Cairn Inside Rotunda, Bannockburn Visitor Centre

In the background above can be seen the statue of King Robert seated on a horse which dominates the area beyond the rotunda:-

Robert the Bruce , Bannockburn, Stirling, Scotland, battlefield

Bannockburn Visitor Centre, Robert the Bruce Statue

Rotunda and flagpole seen from the path to the statue:-

Rotunda and Flagpole, Bannockburn Visitor Centre

View down to suggested battlefield site:-

Bannockburn Today

Roman Remains, Aldborough

I mentioned the village of Aldborough some years ago. The day we went the English Heritage site was closed. In September 2023 it was open.

It’s a small site up a lane in the village but it opens out into somethig more substantial. There is also a small museum attached.

We wandered round both.

Roman perimeter wall/ditch:-

Roman Remains, Aldborough. Perimeter Wall

A smaller (closed off) building on the site contains a Roman mosaic:-

Roman Mosaic, Aldborough

Another mosaic:-

Mosaic, Aldborough

Information in the museum about the above two:-

Information Board, Roman Museum, Aldborough

This one was under glass in the museum:-

aPreserved Mosaic in Museum, Aldborough

 

 

Jimmy Carter

I didn’t mark the passing of former US President Jimmy Carter when it occurred on 29th December, but do so here now.

In all his actions he seemed to be a thoroughly decent man, his instrumental part in the Camp David Accords testifies to that.

That acheivement apart, history might have got the better of him when he was in office – as it usually does for political office holders: events, dear boy, events – but in his long period of being a former President he has a large body of good works to be remembered by.

James Earl Carter: 1/10/1924 – 29/12/2024. So it goes.

Avebury (iii)

Ramparts at Avebury:-

Rampart Ditch, Avebury

Avebury Rampart Ditch

If you follow the path round you come to the outer circle of stones complete with grazing sheep:-

Standing Stones and Sheep, Avebury

Sheep and Standing Stones, Avebury

Standing Stones and Rampart, Avebury

Standing Stones from road:-

Standing Stones  at Avebury from Road

Inner circle of stones with people communing with the spirits of the past:-

Circle of Stones, Avebury

Inner Stone Circle, Avebury

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