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Scapa Flow Scenes

Hoy and a boat on Scapa Flow:-

Hoy + Boat

Hoy from ferry across Scapa Flow. The island in the middleground, with the lighthouse, is Cava:-

Hoy from Ferry across Scapa Flow

A yacht on Scapa Flow, Hoy behind:-

Yacht + Hoy from Scapa Flow

Yacht and SS Hamnavoe from Scapa Flow. Island of Graemsay in middle ground:-

Yacht + SS Hamnavoe from Scapa Flow

Hoy and Flotta

On the way back from Lyness on Hoy to Houton on the Orkney mainland the ferry took a slightly different route in order to put off and pick up at the island of Flotta.

Looking back to Hoy from ferry to Flotta :-

Looking back to Hoy from Flotta Ferry

Miltary constructions go back a long way on Orkney. This is one of at least two Martello Towers on Hoy. These date from the Napoleonic wars:-

A Martello Tower, Hoy

Defunct military building on Flotta, Orkney. Plus trees – an unusual sight on Orkney:-

Fortification on Flotta, Orkney

At the Flotta terminal a woman suddenly cried out, “Look. A Seal!”

A Seal, Flotta

Three more seals were basking on the shore on the other side of the ferry:-

Seals on Flotta, Orkney

Structure in mid Scapa Flow. This was too far away from the ferry for me to make it out but it looks like an artificial island:-

Structure in mid Scapa Flow

Oil Terminal at Rinnigill, Flotta, from Flotta-Houton ferry.:-

Oil Terminal at Rinnigill, Flotta

Tanker and Rinnigill Oil Terminal, Flotta:-

Tanker and Rinnigill OilTerminal, Flotta

Links Battery Stromness

A spit of the Orkney mainland, a ness, juts down from Stromness towards Hoy. To defend the Sound of Hoy from the 1860s onwards artillery batteries were sited on the north shore of the Sound of Hoy.

We strolled down one evening not knowing there were remains still there. I suspect these are all World War 2 vintage.

Site of Volunteers Battery, Stromness:-

Site of Volunteers Battery, Stromness

Nissen Hut, Volunteers Battery, Stromness. I supose they kept ammunition and such here. I suspect it’s now used by Stromness Golf Club:-

Nissen Hut, Volunteers Battery, Stromness

Gun Emplacement, Links Battery, Stromness, Hoy in background:-

Gun Emplacement,  Links Battery, Stromness

Closer View, Gun Emplacement, Links Battery, Stromness:-

Closer View, Gun Emplacement, Links Battery, Stromness

Searchlight Emplacement, Links Battery, Stromness:-

Second Gun Emplacement,  Links Battery, Stromness

Reverse View Links Battery, Searchlight Emplacement. Mainland Orkney in background, island of Graemsay to right:-

Reverse View  Links Battery, Second Gun Emplacement

Sound of Hoy and Hoy from Links Battery Searchlight Emplacement:-

Hoy from  Links Battery Gun Emplacement

Remains of Gun Batteries, Stromness Golf Course, in middle ground:-

Golf Course Gun Batteries, Stromness

Earl’s Bu, Orphir, Orkney

Orphir is on the south of mainland Orkney, near the ferry terminal at Houton. We visited it the day before Lyness as we were scoping out the possibilities of taking the car over to Hoy. It turned out you had to book that two or three days in advance. We ended up as foot passengers.

At Orphir there is a Visitor Cente devoted to the Orkneyinga Saga as it was here there was a Viking drinking hall and where a certain Sven Breastrope (Sveinn Brestrope) was murdered. There are the usual display boards and also a video dramatising the relevant bit of the saga. Unlike at many Orkney attractions we were the sole visitors.

A modern cemetery lies to the south of the site.

Plaque on cemetery wall. Bu means residence:-

Plaque at Earl's Bu, Orphir, Orkney

Remains of Viking drinking hall from northeast:-

Drinking Hall, Earl's Bu, Orphir, Orkney

Remains of Viking drinking hall looking southeast:-

Reverse Angle, Drinking Hall, Earl's Bu, Orphir, Orkney

Remains of Viking drinking hall looking south:-

Drinking Hall, Earl's Bu, Orphir, Orkney

Remains of Viking drinking hall looking north from cemetery wall. Orkneyinga Saga Visitor Centre to left rear, farm buildings to right:-

Earl's Bu, Orphir, Orkney, Drinking Hall from Cemetery Wall

Arctic Convoy Memorial, Lyness, Hoy, Orkney

Almost the first thing you notice making your way out of the ferry terminal at Lyness on Hoy, apart from the last remaining oil tank servicing what was the naval base there and the building housing the Lyness Naval Museum is two flags and two upright stone markers.

This is the Arctic Convoy Memorial. Some of the convoys’ ships sailed from Scapa Flow.

Memorial from road:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial, Lyness, Hoy, Orkney

Memorial Plaza:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial, Lyness, Hoy, Orkney Plaza

Memorial Dedication:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial Dedication

Russian Inscription and Flag. (I note that the flag, strictly, should be that of the USSR):-

Arctic Convoy Memorial, Russian Inscription and Flag

Russian inscription:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial Russian Inscription Close-up

British Inscription and Flag:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial British Inscription and Flag

British Inscription:-

Arctic Convoy Memorial British Inscription

Ahoy, Hoy!

Ahoy-hoy was the suggestion of the inventor of the telephone Alexander Graham Bell for the greeting people should use when answering the telephone. I couldn’t avoid thinking of it as we approached the island of Hoy across Scapa Flow on the ferry crossing from the terminal at Houton to Lyness.

Hoy from ferry:-

Hoy from Ferry across Scapa Flow)

Approaching Lyness:-

Approaching Hoy from Ferry across Scapa Flow

Plaque at Lyness Ferry Terminal commemorating the salvaging of ships from the scuttled German High Seas Fleet in Scapa Flow. Apparently the metal from the ships found use in the space programme as it was uncontaminated by radioactive fallout:-

Plaque at Lyness Ferry Terminal, Hoy, Orkney

Old Fortified Building on Hoy seen from Lyness Naval Cemetery. This must have been to do with either or both of the World Wars:-

Old Fortified Building on Hoy

The Hoy Hotel. Art Deco/Moderne style. We met an Australian photographing the building. He had come to Hoy as that was his surname:-

The Hoy Hotel, Hoy, Orkney

Photo in the Lyness Naval Museum of the Garrison Theatre, Hoy, built by the Royal Marines. Now no more except for the foyer:-

Lost Art Deco on Hoy

HMS Royal Oak Memorial

On the night of 8th October, 1939, the German submarine U-47, under the command of Günther Prien, penetrated the defences of Scapa Flow, Orkney, through Holm Sound and Kirk Sound. Her first two torpedo salvos missed all but an anchor chain but her third struck HMS Royal Oak. Within fifteen minutes the ship had sunk with the loss of 833 British sailors out of the crew of 1,234 men and boys. Many of their bodies were unrecoverable and remain on the ship. A few are interred at Lyness Naval Cemetery on Hoy.

For his feat Prien was awarded the Knight’s Cross of the Iron Cross, the first sailor of a U-boat and the second member of the Kriegsmarine to receive this decoration.

To prevent any further such attacks a series of barriers known as the Churchill barriers was built between four of the southern Orkney islands to connect them to each other and the mainland. The one shown below (picture from the Royal Oak’s Wikipedia page) crosses what was Kirk Sound.

Churchill Barrier across Kirk Sound

For decades afterwards the Royal Oak, a designated war grave on which diving is therefore prohibited, leaked oil into Scapa Flow before the leak was sealed off.

A memorial to HMS Royal Oak is set into the north wall of Kirkwall’s St Magnus Cathedral. There is a dedication plaque, a book of remembrance listing the names, with a page turned every day, surmounted by the ship’s bell.

Royal Oak Memorial

Further along the same wall lies another site of more general remembrance, a niche containing poppies and candles.

Remembrance niche, St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall

Lyness Royal Naval Cemetery, Hoy, Orkney (iii)

An unknown sailor of the Great War, HMS Narborough, 12/1/1918:-

A Sailor of the Great War

An unknown sailor from the Royal Oak, sunk by a German submarine, 14/10/1939:-

A Sailor of the 1939-1945 war.

There are civilian burials in the cemetery at Lyness. Whether these deaths were due to enemy action or not is not made clear on the gravestones.

A Merchant Navy Seaman, Ham Fat, fireman, SS Pass of Leny, 14/6/1943:-

Merchant Navy Seaman, Lyness Royal Naval Cemetery

T H Coleman, First Radio Officer, S S Vasna, 17/9/1941, aged 46:-

Merchant Navy Sailor

“A Parsee” and “A Musalman” Sailor:-

A Parsee and A Musalman Sailor

K Ullah, fireman and trimmer, K Ullah, SS Mostyn, 30/1/1941, aged 32:-

K Ullah

Lyness Royal Naval Cemetery, Hoy, Orkney (ii)

Unusually for a Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery, in Lyness Royal Naval Cemetery, Hoy, Orkney, there are memorials other than the Cross of Sacrifice and the individual graves.

I posted about the HMS Vanguard Memorial on the anniversary of its sinking.

There is also a memorial to HMS Hampshire on which Lord Kitchener and many others died.

HMS Hampshire Memorial, Lyness War Cemetery

HMS Malaya went down in the Battle of Jutland:-

HMS Malaya Memorial, HMS Hampshire Memorial, Lyness War Cemetery

This cross commemorates Roman Catholics:-

Roman Catholic Memorial, Lyness War Cemetery

The following memorial is to “Henry Dixon Dixon-Wright, Chaplain to HMS Barham, died 1/6/1916 of wounds received in the Battle of Jutland and in memory of officers of HMS Barham who fell that day and lie at sea.” (I note the absence of “and men” in the dedication):-

HMS Barham Memorial, Lyness War Cemetery

Gravestone of Zu Sing Kang RFA (Royal Fleet Auxiliary) who died at Scapa Flow, 2/5/1916. “Erected in memory of a kind act done by a Chinaman in nursing a blinded working man afterwards Senator McGregor of the Australian Commonwealth”:-

Zu Sing Kang, Lyness War Cemetery

A Boy Telegraphist, C Rogerson, HMS Pembroke I, 5/1/1918:-

Boy Telegraphist, Lyness War Cemetery

A Boy 1st Class, J T Porter, HMS Malaya, 31/5/1916:-

Boy 1st Class, Lyness War Cemetery

German graves:-

German Graves, Lyness War Cemetery

Marwick Head, Orkney

The cliffs at Marwick Head, the westernmost point of mainland Orkney, are stunning – at least on a sunny day.

The sea was a fantastic blue colour:-

Marwick Head, Orkney

Another cliff:-

Cliff and Sea at Marwick Head, Orkney

The southernmost headland had a standing stone on it. Seabirds circling:-

More Cliff at Marwick Head, Orkney

View South from Marwick Head, Orkney. Hoy in distance:-

View South from Marwick Head, Orkney

Looking north from the vantage point above. Marwick Head, Orkney, and Kitchener Memorial, standing stone in right foreground. The island off to the left is the Brough of Birsay:-

Marwick Head, Orkney, and Kitchener Memorial

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