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Boer War Memorial, Edinburgh

On a sudden impulse we went to Edinburgh on Sunday morning. (Well the good lady wanted to return an item to a shop.)

It was a pleasure not to have to fight our way through crowds on Princes Street as we would have on a Saturday.

I had the camera along and ended up taking 46 photos.

This is the war memorial that stands on North Bridge (the one above Waverley Station.) The uniforms are of the South African War/Wars.

If you read the writing (click on the picture to enlarge) it’s not just to commemorate those wars but also engagements in Afghanistan (nothing changes, eh?) Egypt, Chin Lusha, Chitral and Tirah.

This bottom picture is of the plaque below the memorial. It commemorates the laying of the foundation stone of the North Bridge by some local worthy.

Art Deco Glassware

Last Saturday the good lady and I went to the B2B Edinburgh Antiques and Collectors Fair held in the Royal Highland Centre Ingliston (thought I’d give them the full puff.)

Occasionally we had to dodge the cameras filming BBC 1′s Bargain Hunt.

One of the stalls had a lot of deco stuff including some unusual glass cabinets.

The nearer one is tall. It had empty flower pots in it suggesting that it might be intended as a terrarium. (Spot the Bargain Hunt crew’s microphone boom in the photo’s background.)

The further pair were the image of each other and very deco, having curved edges at one end and an off centre towered part with mirrored sides.

These had gravel in the bottom so may be intended to be terraria as well. They’re a bit large for anywhere but a greenhouse I’d have thought. Our greenhouse is well stocked and we wouldn’t have room elsewhere for anything like them.

I have to say I didn’t see much else to pique my interest so didn’t buy anything all day. (The good lady did, though.)

The next such Fair at Ingliston is in February (12th and 13th.)

Edinburgh Again

We took another stroll along the Water of Leith yesterday and there was the heron again. (I assume it’s the same one we saw before.)

It was quite undisturbed while we were going past, standing stock still, making the photo easier. It only moved up on to the bank after we were along the path a bit.

We browsed the book and charity shops in Stockbridge for a while but I came away empty handed. The good lady picked up two books to add to her to be read pile.

This time we came back via the town and so passed the Dene Bridge at the upper level.

There’s no idea from here of how high above the water the roadway is nor of the immensity of the pillars.

Later we dropped into the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art off Belford Road.

There are sculptures outside; including an unmistakable couple of Henry Moores.

One is at the front.


There is another beside the path which leads down from the car park to the Water of Leith.


Much of modern art leaves me cold but Moore’s sculptures are interesting.

Most of the stuff inside is a bit meh but the figurative paintings by the Scottish Colourists are an exception. (I’m used to these though as the excellent Kirkcaldy Museum and Art Gallery has a fine collection of Peploes as well as some others.)

There were too some pictures by Alasdair Gray on exhibition in the Gallery to tie in with the newly published book of his art work, A Life In Pictures.

Re-numbering Art Deco

For those of you who care about these things I decided a while ago that the numbering system I was using for my Scotland’s Art Deco Heritage posts had become too unwieldy.

For really signature buildings (or those geographically remote) I have retained the Scotland’s Art Deco Heritage title but otherwise I now list buildings under a narrower geographical heading, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Dundee etc.

As a result I thought it better to re-number some earlier posts retrospectively and edit the posts accordingly.

For the record the changes are:-

Scotland’s Art Deco Heritage 6. Bon Accord Baths: now Aberdeen’s Art Deco Heritage 1

SADH 7. Carron Restaurant: now SADH 6

SADH 8 (and update.) Nardini’s: now 7 (and update)

SADH 9. Northern Hotel: now Aberdeen 2

SADH 10. Tarlair Swimming Pool: now 8

SADH 11. Ascot Cinema: now 9

SADH 12. Kelvin Court: now 10

SADH 13. Victoria Cinema: now Edinburgh’s Art Deco Heritage 1

SADH 14. Green’s Playhouse: now Dundee’s Art Deco Heritage 1

SADH 15. Murraygate (I): now Dundee 2

SADH 16. Murraygate (II and III): now Dundee 3

SADH 17. now Dundee 4

SADH 18. Causewayside Garage: now Edinburgh 2

SADH 19. Dumbarton: now 11

SADH 20. Tobermory: now 12

SADH 21. Perth: now 13

SADH 17 (ii). Lilybank Mews: now Dundee 5

SADH 9 (ii). Beach Ballroom: now Aberdeen 3

SADH 22. Stonehaven Swimming pool: now 14

End of public information announcement.

Stockbridge, Edinburgh

Last week the good lady and I took another stroll along the Water of Leith.

No herons this time, and we didn’t tarry by Dean Village, the Dene Bridge nor St Bernards Well but since the last time we were there, there have been a few additions to the water in the shape of Antony Gormley sculptures. This is the one nearest Stockbridge.

Stockbridge Gormley Man

Gormley is most famous for the Angel Of The North but has also placed figures on Crosby Beach near Liverpool and on roofs in New York and London.

The Water of Leith seems an appropriate location for these new emplacements as it flows past the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, albeit out of sight in a valley.

We had a look around Stockbridge, the good lady loading up on books from the charity shops and a great second-hand book shop that we hadn’t gone into before.

I liked the look of this one as the facade is Decoish:-

Former bank?

I suspect the projecting frontage may have started life as a bank.

Bank detail

There is some nice detailing on the door surround too.

Bank door

On its left as you look at it in the photo stands the former Woolworths shop (which wasn’t ever Art Deco) and is now a Scotmid.

Former Woolies, Stockbridge

On the way back I photographed the bridge which carries Belford Road over the river.

Old bridge

I’ve no idea whether this is one of Thomas Telford’s (as the Dene Bridge is) but it looks of an age to me.

This is the detail up on the right in close up:-

Detail on old bridge

I believe it depicts the Arms of Edinburgh.

Science Fiction Versus The Detective Story (with a foray into the great Scottish divide.)

Time was when the Science Fiction crime/detective story was a rarity. This may have been because there is a fundamental disparity between the two forms. In Science Fiction the essence is that the tale is of something changed or changing, by the end of the tale the world is no longer the same. In crime fiction, by contrast, order – normality – is restored, the world is made safe again. There is also a necessary withholding of information in the crime story (or at least a need to disguise it.) In Science Fiction the more information is granted to the reader the more real the changed world seems, the more we believe in it.

The first truly successful SF crime stories that I recall were written by Larry Niven and featured teleportation booths. In A Kind of Murder the resolution and solving of the crime depends solely on a ramification of this SF element. Niven then went on to write novels featuring the detective Gil the ARM Hamilton who as the result of an accident lost one physical arm but then developed a psychic one which he subsequently used in his investigations.

Perhaps because of the infiltration of so much of what was SF into both the modern world and the modern detective story/thriller, especially televisually; perhaps because the conventions of the detective story are so embedded, the SF crime story is nowadays no longer so problematic and SF detectives are far from rare.

These thoughts were prompted by the SF book which I am reading at the moment, The Night Sessions by Ken Macleod. It has elements of the detective story and part of the action takes place in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is a marvellous setting for detective/horror/supernatural fiction as it is so wonderfully Gothic. There is the unmissable landmark of the castle brooding on its rock, Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill with its curious, apparently unfinished buildings in the classical style, the bizarre under and over layout of the streets just off the Royal Mile, the contrast between the Old Town and the New (and nowadays the peripheral estates.) The Old Town itself has so many mediæval associations – not to mention underground warrens – several atmospheric churchyards with attached cemeteries and of course there is the bodysnatching/Burke and Hare connection; all of which make it almost perfect for the unfolding of skullduggery of various sorts. Glasgow, by contrast, while its estates are bleak, has only the area by the Cathedral which is truly old. Its streets tend to be more grid like – with no dark, tunnel-like thoroughfares analogous to The Cowgate (unless you count the Hielanman’s Umbrella.) For all its energy and (misplaced?) reputation for violence it seems so much more prosaic a place, more bustling certainly, but more modern, more down to earth, less prone to fancies.

Well Court (Dean Village)

Well Court

The walk I took in Edinburgh along the Water Of Leith a few weeks ago also revealed to me Well Court, which has recently been restored. (The above picture originates from the site in the link.)

The buildings here were a delight to come across. So quaint and Olde Worlde; obviously recently refurbished yet with a sympathetic touch.

I took a photo of this interesting cluster and juxtaposition of roofs and windows. I love the way the gutter goes across the window towards the top left of the picture

Part Of Well Court

Well Court is by the Water Of Leith, over the water from Dean Village. Here’s my photo of the clocktower.

Clocktower At Well Court

The buildings are clustered round a square entered through an archway. One corner had this mediæval style stairwell open to the elements. Nice ironwork on the balconies.

 Open Stairwell At Well Court

One of Edinburgh’s relatively hidden pleasures.

St Bernard’s Well

The day I photographed the heron in Edinburgh the good lady and I also passed St Bernard’s Well.

This is the well that the former Scottish football team, St Bernards, was named after. (See my first post on eccentric names of Scottish football teams.)

St Bernard's Well full view

It’s a pity the baby buggy is in the picture’s foreground but I could hardly ask its mother to move it.

The well is beside the Water of Leith in Edinburgh, near Stockbridge.

St Bernard's Well door

This is the door. You can just make out the writing “St Bernard’s Mineral Well” on the lintel.

St Bernard's Well statue side view

This statue of a classically dressed female is in the centre of the eight pillars which hold up the superstructure.

St Bernard's Well statue front view

Here she is in close-up. No doubt the snake is an allusion or allegory of some sort but my knowledge of such things is not extensive.

Dene Bridge

This is Thomas Telford’s Dene Bridge over the Water Of Leith viewed from the West. I’ve crossed this bridge many times but hadn’t seen it from below before (except on television.) You don’t get any idea when you’re on it just how high it is nor of its detailing.

The photo is a stitch of three (I think I didn’t quite get my angles right so the match isn’t perfect. It also shows only two of the three spans. Too many trees in the way.)

Dene Bridge

Here are the individual photos.

Dene Bridge 1

Dene Bridge 2

Dene Bridge 3

This is the view from the other (East) side.

Dene Bridge other side

This thing is massive.

Edinburgh Wild Life

I was in Edinburgh last week and took a walk by the Water Of Leith. Just before Stockbridge I came across this heron in the river. It was stock still for ages, almost as if it was a statue.

Heron1

Unfortunately it was a new camera and I’m not used to the zoom so the focus is a bit off.

On the walk back there was another heron. This was the other side of Dean Village and Dene Bridge. I think the focus is better on this one.

Heron2

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